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Tuesday, November 20, 2018

Bishnupur Tour Day 1 Itinerary: The Famous Terracotta Temples




As our train chugged into the railway station at Bishnupur in the Bankura district in the Indian state of West Bengal, we prepared ourselves for a tryst with the rich art and culture of this historic town that is world renowned for its terracotta art and architecture. We intended to explore how the humble clay art of Bengal survived the test of times and managed to retain its glory in the age of digital inventions. Our interactions with the terracotta artisans of the region painted a mixed picture of the future of this folk art form.

Below is a summary of the history and description of Bishnupur and its terracotta structures. A Youtube presentation of our tour in greater details along with necessary tips for the tour have been provided at the end of the tour summary.

The Terracotta Temple Town Of Bishnupur

Bishnupur is a magnet for lovers of history and art. Gorgeous terracotta temples peep at you from behind lush green foliages all around the town. Some of these temples retain their former grandeur (those fortunate enough to be selected for preservation by the Archeological Society of India) while others are in desperate need of attention.

The History Of Bishnupur


The terracotta temples of Bishnupur were built by the rulers of the Malla dynasty. According to legend, a Rajput king discarded his queen while she was in labor as they were passing through Bengal. The queen gave birth to a son who grew up to establish the Malla dynasty in Bishnupur. Following the Mughal invasion of the region in 1574, the Mallas accepted the dominance of the Mughals and thus enjoyed special privileges during the Mughal Empire’s rule in the region. 

The Malla rulers were devout followers of Vaishnavism, one of the major Hindu traditions whose believers regard Lord Vishnu as the supreme deity. As with all other rulers of the time, the Mallas decided to exhibit their prowess by building magnificent structures in the form of temples dedicated to Lord Krishna, an avatar of Lord Vishnu.

Structures In Terracotta


Bricks and laterite have been used to build most of these temples of Bishnupur. The majority of them are of the Eka-Ratna type with a sloping roof and single tower on top of it. Below the roof is a square cell that hosts the sanctum sanctorum of the temple. There is a porch on each of the four sides. Although at one time these temples were the hub of the social, cultural, and religious lives of the people of Bishnupur, today most of these temples are devoid of any deities and mainly serve as tourist attractions. The Jormandir, Radhashyam, Lalji, etc., are some of the temples with a single tower. The Shyam Rai temple, built in AD 1643, has five towers. 

What is most spectacular about these temples in Bishnupur is the intricate terracotta carvings decorating their facades. These carvings depict mythological tales and events and also reveal a great deal about the people’s way of life in the past. As we wondered at the terracotta reliefs of Bishnupur’s temples, we learned about the village of Panchmura, about 21 km from Bishnupur, the present-day abode of terracotta artists of Bengal. A visit to the village was a must for completing our journey into the terracotta land of Bengal.




A vlog on my tour of Bishnupur, the terracotta town of West Bengal, India. 

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