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Wednesday, December 5, 2018

Bishnupur Tour Day 2 Itinerary: Panchmura Terracotta Village And Gongoni Canyon


A Youtube presentation of the below mentioned itinerary:


Pora Matir Haat In Bishnupur



If you are visiting Bishnupur make sure that you spend a Saturday there as the Pora Matir Haat (Terracotta Bazaar) is held there every Saturday from around 2 pm to 5:30 pm. You can reach the haat by a short walk of about 5 minutes from the Chinnamasta temple or you may take a toto (auto/tuktuk-like vehicle) too!

Once you enter the haat (free entry), you will be greeted by a riot of colors. Folk songs and music from traditional instruments fill the air. Dancers in their vibrant traditional costumes make a merry sight.

Like every fair, you will find plenty of options for food and stalls selling handicrafts. The locals cook food in their homes and sell it at the fair. Sit down with the locals and taste their food while you enjoy the merry mood around you.

While returning from the haat to the tourist lodge, you will find plenty of shops selling the beautiful terracotta handicrafts that Bishnupur is so famous for. Again, hold your horses, and leave some space in your bags for shopping the next day.

The Village Of Panchmura: The Address Of The Terracotta Artisans


The following day, after a sumptuous breakfast at the tourist lodge, and checking out of the lodge, we set out with our luggage in a hired car to visit Panchmura and the Gongoni canyon in Garhbeta. Panchmura is a tiny village about 21 km from the Bishnupur town. It is the abode of the present-day terracotta artists and their families.

We were lucky to have visited Panchmura during the Terracotta Mela 2018. While we were deciding what to do once we reached the village, we were immediately greeted by an elderly man in his 80’s. He introduced himself as Gautam Kumbhakar, one of the most renowned terracotta artists of Bishnupur district.

Our joy knew no bounds when he welcomed us into his home where he took us to his workshop to show us his excellent handwork. Rows of terracotta idols of Indian gods and goddesses greeted our eyes, all crafted to perfection.

One handicraft, in particular, mesmerized all of us. It was a terracotta shankh. It resembles a conch shell, a musical wind instrument made from the seashell. A conch shell is used in Bengali religious ceremonies and weddings. The sound of the conch shell is considered to be auspicious. Interestingly, we saw an intricately carved terracotta shankh producing the same sound as the conch shell.

Mr. Kumbhakar also showed us the President’s award given to his father, Sri Rambihari Kumbhakar for his skills in the terracotta craft. It was a proud moment for him and a happy one for us.

Like father, like son. Mr. Kumbhakar himself is no less talented. He showed us various newspaper cuttings in leading local dailies praising his work in terracotta crafting.

After exiting the home of this artist (who is also a retired teacher), we took a stroll through the village, visiting the homes of other craftsmen. We did our maximum terracotta shopping in Panchmura, and we found a wider range of products than before.

My tip: Just bargain a little with the artisans. I did not bargain as I found the prices were already very affordable and the artisans deserved some encouragement.

The Bankura horse is the most famous terracotta handicraft of Bishnupur. It is often treated as a symbol of Indian folk-art. In the past, the terracotta horse was used as an integral part of religious rituals in the village. Today, it is an internationally renowned Indian handicraft.

Off To The Gongoni Cany,on In Garhbeta



From Panchmura, we set out towards Garhbeta to visit the Gongoni Canyon or the Gangani Khola beside the Silabati River. It is noted for its scenic beauty and trekking opportunities.

Canyon formation takes place due to the forces of erosion and weathering. Cliffs are formed when the layers of rock vary in composition. Softer rock erodes fast while the harder layers remain behind, leading to the formation of cliffs, ledges, and gorges.

Tips for Gongoni canyon: I would suggest it is better to go in larger groups to the canyon and leave it before sunset. Often, crowds consisting of drunken, unruly men visit the site. At such times, the place is not safe for other visitors. Also, please follow the rules written on the boards near the canyon. Do not go to close to the cliff edges as the rocks there are unstable.

After spending about an hour trekking through the Gongoni canyon, we headed off to the Garbheta railway station. Remember, no vehicle facilities are available near the canyon so come in one of your own or a hired one. We took the 5:46 pm Rupashi Bangla Express to Howrah. We reached Howrah around 9 pm. Thank you for watching the video. Hope you found it useful.  Next tour video: Murshidabad, West Bengal, India

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