Can India Save The Indian Skimmer?

The Indian skimmer. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

The world is on the verge of losing an extremely beautiful bird. Its steady decline is indicative of the failing health of our aquatic ecosystems. A 2020 assessment by the IUCN declared the Indian skimmer as Endangered. The bird, once widespread across the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia, has gone extinct in several countries. Its breeding population is now restricted only to India. We, Indians, now have a big responsibility - ensure a secure future for these birds.

In April this year, I was fortunate enough to watch the Indian skimmers nesting in one of their last remaining breeding habitats in the Chambal River. This river that flows through the three Indian states of Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, and Uttar Pradesh to drain into the Yamuna provides sand bars and sand islands ideal for the nesting of these birds.

A boat ride in the National Chambal Sanctuary, Rajasthan. 

A boat safari in the Chambal River, starting from Dholpur in Rajasthan, took me to the unique world of these Indian skimmers. You can also access the Sanctuary from Palighat in Rajasthan and Morena in Madhya Pradesh. The boat safari is the best way to witness these birds in their natural habitat. Of course, the river is also home to the critically endangered gharials, the vulnerable muggers, threatened species of turtles, and much more.

Gharials and mugger in the Chambal River. Image credit: Arijit Nag

The Indian skimmers breed colonially. With the onset of summer, the breeding pairs start nesting. They dig out small burrows or make scrapes in the sand of sand bars and islands on the river to lay their eggs. Identifying these dainty-looking birds is quite easy among the many other birds like the black-bellied tern that you will see sharing the habitat with them. The Indian skimmer's black upperparts contrast starkly with the white forehead and underparts. The bill is most striking in appearance. It is long, deep, bright orange in colour with yellow tips, and the lower mandible is longer than the upper one. The bird gets its name from its habit of "skimming for fish" in the waters. It flows low above the water surface and scoops out fish from the water with its beak. 

The median clutch size of Indian skimmers is three. After around 22 days of incubation, the hatchlings emerge. However, the species has a very low nesting success. As per IUCN, only around 43% of the eggs hatch and 35% of the hatchlings reach the fledgling stage in the National Chambal Sanctuary. The habitat specificity of these birds makes them extremely vulnerable to a multitude of threats, which became clear to me during the boat safari.

The Indian skimmer nesting in the sand. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

For Indian skimmers to successfully nest, water levels in the river must be optimum. Too much water will cause the nests to drown, and too little water will connect the sand bars and islands to the banks, making predation of the eggs and hatchlings easy. 

The existence of infrastructure projects in the Indian skimmer's habitat is one of the biggest threats to the bird. For example, four dams and several irrigation projects exist along the Chambal River, making the water levels in the river often very unpredictable due to sudden release or extraction as per the need of the projects. There have been several incidents of the nests of these birds being washed away due to the sudden release of water from upstream dams. 

On the other hand, extensive river water extraction for irrigation, as well as the increasingly hot summers caused by climate change, lead to the drying up of the water, creating a continuous passage across the river. Feral dogs and jackals can then easily tread into Indian skimmer territory, predating on the eggs and young ones. Grazing animals also move across, trampling the nests of these birds. Occasionally, eggs and chicks are also harvested for consumption by the local people.

Another major threat to the Indian skimmers is the rampant illegal sand mining in the Chambal River. The fine sand from the river is plundered in broad daylight and transported away for the market, damaging the river's ecosystem. Over the years, many have lost their lives trying to stop the sand mining mafia in the region but with no success.

Indian skimmers in flight above the Chambal River with sand mining happening in the background. 

     Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

River pollution is another factor contributing to the loss of Indian skimmers. The food and habitat quality of these birds degrade with pollutants entering the water, affecting the birds in the long run.

Also, it is important that visitors who take boat safaris to view skimmers and gharials do not approach too close to these birds as it disturbs their nesting behaviour.

Finally, those birds that manage to survive these ravages usually fly off to the coastal areas of India in the non-breeding season where they can be seen in the mudflats and saltpans. Some stay back or spread out to the nearby rivers and lakes. 

Indian skimmers in the sand bar of the Chambal River. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

Today, only around 2,900 mature Indian skimmers survive in the wild. Conservation efforts have been launched by conservation organisations like the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) to save the species. The BNHS has set up a nest guardianship program whereby locals guard the nests of Indian skimmers from predators and trampling by cattle. Other conservation interventions are also being executed.

Saving the Indian skimmers translates to protecting our vital riverine ecosystems that sustain our massive population. Hence, more concerted efforts are needed from the various stakeholders to preserve and protect these beautiful birds of India.

Written by: Dr. Oishimaya Sen Nag

A Day Trip To The Van Vihar Sanctuary, Rajasthan

At Van Vihar Sanctuary, Rajasthan. Image credit: Arijit Nag

I woke up to the songs of the birds. I checked the clock. It was just 5:30 am. I had set the alarm to 6 am, but I guess my excitement could not wait any longer. It took me just half an hour to get ready. By that time, my husband had woken up too. Soon, we were ready with our backpacks for the day. As we opened the doors of our villa at the Raj Niwas Palace, Dholpur, we were greeted by the ethereal sight of the gorgeous peacocks that populate the grounds and gardens of the palace. Outside in the parking lot, our vehicle for the day, a grand-looking open jeep, was waiting with the driver and the guide. Soon, we were off to explore a little-known destination - the Van Vihar Sanctuary of Rajasthan.

Our jeep sped through the small town of Dholpur in Rajasthan. People were already out on the streets. Here, life starts early in the day. Everyone's eyes were on our open jeep. It is not something they see every day. We felt like celebrities taking a ride and staying in a palace-turned-heritage hotel in the town. It was all a grand experience. 

Around forty minutes from Dholpur town, we reached our destination. I had expected a proper gate announcing the entry to the sanctuary or at least a signboard, but there was nothing of that sort. Only our guide's declaration that we were in the sanctuary is what let us know that it was the Van Vihar Sanctuary. Do not mix it up with the Van Vihar National Park, which is a destination near Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh.

The road through the Van Vihar Sanctuary, Rajasthan. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

On both sides of the metalled road was raw wilderness. Sprawling scrub jungles and grasslands spread out on either side. In the distance, I could see the ruins of an ancient building. Our guide explained that it was the former forest rest house of the rulers of the past, the same dynasty that owned the Raj Niwas Palace where we were staying. 

We got out of our jeep and onto the main road. There were hardly any vehicles or any other soul out there. We were served morning tea and cookies. It was indeed a pleasant experience to sip tea in the calm environment of the sanctuary while watching the sun rising above the ancient ruins and listening to the bird calls.

At Van Vihar Sanctuary, Rajasthan. Image credit: Arijit Nag

Once done, our guide asked us if we wished to explore the ancient rest house. Of course, we were more than ready. We decided to walk there instead of riding the vehicle. First, we came across a massive lake to our right, suffering from eutrophication. Opposite the lake on the other side of the road was a Hanuman temple with some men from the local Gujjar community performing some rituals inside.

The waterbody inside the Van Vihar Sanctuary. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

 What really caught my eye was a board outside the temple warning people of mugger crocodiles in the lake. The calm, harmless-looking water body suddenly appeared more alive to me. Somewhere out there in the waters, muggers are lurking around. No wonder the board was put up. If anyone entered the waters without knowing, they might not come out of it again! 

Sign on the side of the temple warning about the presence of mugger crocodiles in the lake. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

Just a few steps later, another sight greeted us, and this one was truly magical. To our left was a large herd of chital or spotted deer. Handsome males with branching antlers, beautiful-eyed females, and adorable small ones were all on the alert, trying to measure our next move and assess if we were threats of any kind. However, given that they are wild deer, it was quite surprising to see them being so bold and not running away immediately upon seeing us, unlike in other forests. I came to know the reason for this while on our way back.

Spotted deer herd in Van Vihar Sanctuary.  Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

On the opposite side of this enchanting scene was the old forest mansion called the Van Vihar Kothi. On the outer gate of the mansion, there was a signboard that read, "Hunting panthers and bears in this sanctuary is strictly prohibited." That was the first time when we actually saw something written about the sanctuary's existence. We also got to know about some of its most coveted inhabitants - leopards and sloth bears. Our guide also informed us that the sanctuary is home to sambars, nilgais, hyenas, wild boars, and many bird and reptilian species as well. 

As we entered the grounds of the mansion, we could feel its past grandeur. However, inside, it was all in ruins. Giant cobwebs hung on the walls and ceilings, and the floors were all carpeted with bird poop. I was quite disappointed to see history falling apart. 

The entry gate to the Van Vihar Kothi. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

I heard from the guide that a feud between the local community and the ex-royals who own the property had prevented the building from being renovated. Plans were to convert it to a hotel in the wilderness. Given the excellent location, I could see that it would make a fantastic one. Also, the guide informed us that there were plans to relocate some tigers from Ranthambhore's growing tiger population to this sanctuary, which would mean tourists pouring into the area.

We went up the stairs to the terrace. What a spectacular view from there! The water body spread out on one side, and the wilderness expanded beyond it and in all other directions. 

On the terrace of the Van Vihar Sanctuary. Image credit: Arijit Nag.

We could see that people do come up to the terrace as there were bananas laid out in a series for the visiting monkeys. Evidence was also right there in front of us as we saw a curious rhesus macaque happily feasting on a banana along the ledge of the terrace. On a tree by the water body, I also got to see beautiful rock pigeons and rose-ringed parakeets, making for a very pretty sight.

As we exited the mansion, we saw something totally unexpected. There were people feeding, throwing grains and biscuits all around, and deer, cows, monkeys, and birds all gathered in one place to make the best of this opportunity of ready-made food.

Spotted deer, rhesus macaque (in front of the cow), and domestic cow, all in one place. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

The conservation thinker in me knew that this was totally not the right thing to do. Humans must not feed wild animals except in cases where the animal is under treatment or has been rescued from some mishap. Feeding makes them dependent on humans for food. Often, the food given by humans is also not good for the health of these animals. Also, bringing wildlife and domestic animals together could facilitate disease transmission between the species. 

However, it is important to be not harsh towards these feeders as they are doing it out of kindness and compassion. Education is the way to resolve this issue. We must remember that it is the acceptance of wild animals by the local communities that allows our wildlife to thrive outside protected areas. 

The visit to the Van Vihar Sanctuary was really pleasant. I do hope that the protected area receives greater attention from the authorities and is kept safer and more protected. There is great potential here. 

Seven Fruit Capitals Of India - Best Places To Try These Fruits

India is blessed with a great diversity of ecosystems with varying climatic conditions that support the cultivation of many varieties of fruits. Some of these fruits are native to India, while others were introduced. Today, many of the fruits grown in the country are exported, earning the country considerable profits. Fruit cultivation also supports thousands of livelihoods across India. Over time, some places in the country have also become associated with a particular fruit and are even given nicknames associated with the fruit. Here are seven such places in India made famous by the fruits grown there.

Muzaffarpur, Bihar - Lychee

Lychees. Image credit: കാക്കര, via Wikimedia Commons

The fleshy, juicy, sweet taste of lychee is available to lychee lovers for only a short period in summer. Yet, the taste lingers on the rest of the year. While lychee in the preserved form in drinks, ice creams, etc., might be in stock throughout the year, nothing compares to indulging in the fresh fruit itself, opening the pink-red outer cover to reveal the juicy pulp inside and popping it into the mouth. The rarity of lychee makes it even more delicious to its lovers, and hence, Muzaffarpur in Bihar must become one of their favourite places in the world. Yes, Bihar in India is the biggest lychee producer, with Muzaffarpur being a major hub of lychee trade. Hence, not surprisingly, it is nicknamed "the lychee basket of India" and "the lychee capital of India."

Malda, India - Mango

Himsagar mango from India at the Redland Summer Fruit Festival, Fruit & Spice Park, Homestead, Florida. Image credit: Asit K. Ghosh Thaumaturgist via Wikimedia Commons

Bengal is not just famous for its sweet sweets but also for its sweet mangoes. Yes, Malda in West Bengal is from where India's juiciest, sweetest, most flavourful mangoes are derived. The fertile soil and conducive climate of the area yield the best quality mangoes in Malda. The many varieties, like Himsagar, Dudhiya, Langra, Lakshmanbhog, Fajli, etc., from Malda are all distributed across the country and also exported. Three of the varieties, Himsagar, Fajli, and Lakshmanbhog, have already been assigned the Geographical Indication (GI) tag by the central government, indicating the uniqueness of the varieties.

Nagpur, Maharashtra - Orange

Nagpur oranges. Image credit: Jim via Flickr.com.

Nagpur is almost synonymous with oranges. The oranges grown in the region have also been assigned the GI tag in 2014, and why not? These oranges have a distinct taste and are fleshy, highly juicy, and sweet. Two varieties are grown by the farmers, one available from September to December called Ambiya and the other that is harvested in January called Mrig. The latter is the sweeter one. 

Shimla, Himachal Pradesh - Apple

Apples growing on a tree. Image credit: Vinayaraj via Wikimedia Commons.

Shimla's apple story is one that touches the heart. A man named Samuel Evans Stokes from Philadelphia, US, arrived in India around 1904. While visiting Shimla, he so fell in love with the beauty of the Himalayas and its people, that he made the place his home, married, and settled down. He also decided to give back to the place that had showered him with so much love and warmth. He introduced apple cultivation in a small village called Thanedar near Shimla. The conditions being ideal for the fruit, the apple plant flourished in the area and soon Shimla became a major exporter of apples in the country. 

Nashik, Maharashtra - Grapes

A grape farm. Image credit: Anannya Deb via Flickr.com.

Another entry from Maharashtra, Nashik is famous for its grapes that received the GI tag in 2010. Over 70% of India's exported grapes come from Nashik. The main varieties that are grown here are the Sonaka, Thompson seedless, and Sharad seedless. Grape cultivation was first introduced in the region in 1925 by a farmer called Ramrao J. Gaikwad in the town of Ojhar near Nashik. Since then, there has been no looking back. Today, over 1.75 lakh hectares of land in the region is dedicated to grape cultivation.

Beed, Maharashtra - Custard Apple

Custard apples and bananas. Image credit: Melissa via Wikimedia Commons.

Beed custard apples are another GI-tagged fruit. The cultivation of custard apples in the region was introduced by the Portuguese around the 16th century. These fruits are famous for their well-rounded shape, attractive external green colour, lesser number of seeds, and puply, juicy fruit that is high in nutritional value.

Vazhakulam, Kerala - Pineapple

Pineapples. Image credit: P.L. Tandon via Flickr.com.

The presence of large-scale pineapple farms in and around Vazhakulam gives it the name "The Pineapple City of India." The pineapples produced here are also GI-tagged. They are famous for their pleasant aroma, high sugar, and low acid content, slightly conical shape, and bright yellow colour. Pineapples were introduced in India by the Portuguese, but their historical cultivation record in Kerala is not well documented. In 1995, a Pineapple Research Station was established in Vazhakulam, and the GI tag was granted to the pineapples in 2009.

7 Best Towns To Visit In Odisha

The eastern Indian state of Odisha is packed with destinations for the avid traveller. From the gorgeous sun, sand, and sea of Puri to the jaw-dropping temple architecture of Konark to the misty mornings of the Daringbadi hill station to the magnificent palaces of Badipada, Odisha has it all. So, come explore these seven amazing towns of Odisha.

Bhubaneshwar

Image credit: Debashis Pradhan via Wikimedia Commons.

Odisha's capital city is a gateway to many destinations. So, if you put up base here with plenty of accommodation options being available, you can explore many places in and around this city. However, if you are an ardent nature lover, you can stay around an hour outside the main city at the Svanir Wilderness Homestay, close to the Chandaka Wildlife Sanctuary. Bhubaneshwar is famous for its many temples. The entire city is dotted with ancient temples, but the most famous one is, of course, the 11th-century Lingaraja Temple. There is much to see in this Hindu temple complex, including beautiful ancient architecture, local culture, and elaborate rituals. Just a few kilometres from the city, you will find the ancient cave dwellings of Buddhist monks, the Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves, which are great to explore and photograph. After doing all the sightseeing in Bhubaneshwar, you can pack your bags for Puri or Konark or other nearby destinations.

Baripada

The Rath Yatra in Badipada, Odisha. Image credit: Government of Odisha, via Wikimedia Commons

If you want to experience royalty in Odisha, then Baripada is the ideal place to be. The spectacular Belgadia Palace in Baripada awaits you with all its glory. A former palace of the Bhanja dynasty of the former princely state of Mayurbhanj, the Belgadia Palace is now a heritage stay for those wanting to experience the best Odiya hospitality, culture, and history. This stately mansion is itself a place to explore, with historical exhibits throughout the property. With this royal address as your base, you can explore the town and its many attractions, like watching the evening rituals at an ancient temple, exploring the historical ruins of Haripuda Gada, and interacting with the lovely ladies of the Sabai crafts cluster and even do some shopping of exquisite handicrafts made of the sabai grass. Outdoor lovers will enjoy visiting the nearby Simlipal National Park, famous for its ethereal scenery and wildlife.

Chandipur

The Chandipur Beach. Image credit: Nihar.race via Wikimedia Commons.

In Chandipur, be ready to meet the "Hide and Seek" sea. Yes, the sea disappears here during low tide, leaving behind a massive stretch of beach! Here, you must walk on the beach for around 2 km during low tide to meet the sea. However, the beach almost disappears at high tide as the sea rushes in, engulfing it. It is essential to get guidance from the locals regarding the tide timings as water rushes in quite fast during high tide, leaving little time to retreat to safety if caught in the middle of the vast beach. The unique nature of the beach in Chandipur makes it an excellent habitat for intertidal coastal wildlife. So, look for marine life as you walk along the beach, but ensure you do not remove anything, including shells. Everything has its own place in nature, and empty shells contribute to the beach-building process and also serve as shelter for animals like hermit crabs.

Daringbadi

A waterfall near Daringbadi, Odisha. Image credit: MKar via Wikimedia Commons.

Odisha is primarily known for its coastal cities and their gorgeous beaches, but tucked away in the Kandhmal District of the state, you will find a serene hill station where occasional snowfall in the winter is not unheard of. Although only around 915 m in elevation, Daringbadi has all the features to make it a fantastic destination for those who love the hills. There is natural beauty all around, with streams and waterfalls abounding in the misty forests surrounding the tiny town. Here, you can explore the wildlife of the Belghar Sanctuary, meet the Bonda tribe people living in the forest, and learn about their culture. There are also coffee plantations in Daringbadi that you must visit. In addition to nature trails and hikes, you can simply spend some leisure time with loved ones at a quaint homestay in the hill station, away from the noise and chaos of the big cities and towns.

Dhenkanal

A temple in Dhenkanal, Odisha. Image credit: MKar via Wikimedia Commons.

Another great destination to enjoy the rich heritage of Odisha is the town of Dhenkanal. Here, you can stay in the spectacular Dhenkanal Palace in town or the Gajlaxmi Palace, a former hunting lodge of the region's royals in the Dhenkanal Forest. These places are steeped in history and royalty, making for a highly memorable experience. There are plenty of sightseeing options as well. You can visit an ancient Shiva temple on the hills to have a great time in quietitude. Then there is the Mahima Gadi, a place as unique as can be because of the sadhus/monks here who follow a unique form of Hinduism. They believe in a formless God called Alekha and strictly reject the caste system. You must visit the Mahima Gadi in the evening to enjoy the evening worship ritual of these sadhus, which is nothing like you have ever seen before. While in Dhenkanal, you must also visit the dokra village. Here, you can buy beautiful dokra metallic handicrafts from the artisans and watch them being made in the village homes.

Puri

Puri Beach in Puri, Odisha. Image credit: Pinakpani via Wikimedia Commons

Of course, this list will never be complete without mentioning the seaside town of Puri, which is a magnet for both pilgrims and tourists. Puri's Jagannath Temple has drawn Hindu pilgrims since time immemorial to the place. However, the gorgeous sandy beaches of the town are also popular among travellers. If you love a family-friendly beach atmosphere, Puri is the place to be. Here, there are hotels for every type of traveller, from backpackers to luxury seekers. If you are visiting the Jagannath Temple in Puri, ensure you take a proper local guide with you, as the temple is heavily crowded, and you need someone to guide you through it. Also, remember to visit the nearby artisans' village of Raghurajpur. This village will introduce you to the local art and handicrafts of Odisha. Here, every home in the village serves as an art studio where cloth paintings called patachitra, palmyra palm paintings, paper mache masks, etc., are on display. The beauty of the artwork will surely make your jaws drop. Do carry sufficient cash with you as you will invariably buy more than one artwork from Raghurajpur. They are that beautiful!

Konark

The beautiful Konark Sun Temple in Konark. Image credit: Andrew Moore via Flickr.com.

A short drive of around an hour from Puri will take you to a small town with a big attraction - the Konark Sun Temple. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this 13th-century temple is associated with rich Indian history. Although much of the temple complex is in ruins, whatever remains is enough to inspire awe. The design and architecture of the temple continue to intrigue modern architects as to how ancient workers created such an engineering marvel so many centuries ago. There are photographic opportunities amid the beautiful ancient walls, stairs, and columns of the Konark Sun Temple. So, wear the right kind of clothes that give you good contrast for photographs against the brick-like colour of the temple. Also, take a government-certified guide with you to learn about the temple's history and the significance of the various carvings decorating the walls of the temple. After the temple tour, you can also take a stroll on Chandrabhaga Beach nearby to enjoy some cool sea breeze and refresh yourself.

Talab-e-Shahi And Khanpur Mahal, Rajasthan : A Birder's Paradise And A History Lover's Delight

The Talab-e-Shahi and Khanpur Mahal. Image by: Oishimaya Sen Nag

There is royalty in its name - Talab-e-Shahi, meaning the royal pond. It is, however, not exactly a pond but a lake that was artificially created along with the Khanpur Mahal on its shores in 1617 to serve the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan during his hunting trips to Dholpur. Today, the lake lies around 27 km from the town of Dholpur in Rajasthan.

I never knew about its existence until my visit to the Raj Niwas Palace in Dholpur, Rajasthan, to explore the wildlife of the nearby Chambal River. I was staying at the palace, a grand accommodation indeed, a heritage hotel owned by the former ruling family of the region with a rich history. I had booked a jeep safari at Raj Niwas for sightseeing in and around Dholpur. It was on the safari itinerary that I first came to learn about the Talab-e-Shahi.

Having the morning cup of tea at Van Vihar Sanctuary in the safari jeep of Raj Niwas Palace.

We started from the palace early morning at 6 am to avoid the heat of the day as we were travelling in an open jeep. As we passed through the busy Dholpur town, we could see all the gazes upon us. Such open jeep vehicles are not commonly seen, and hence, it raised people's curiosity. Our first stop was at the Van Vihar Sanctuary, an offbeat wildlife destination that I will describe in a later post. From Van Vihar, we set off for Talab-e-Shahi. 

Our jeep speeded through an interesting landscape of wheat fields interspersed with grasslands and scrub forests. It was brown and arid but had a raw beauty to it. Soon, we got to see an expanse of blue on the horizon with a beautiful red-coloured palatial building in the background. "Welcome to the Talab-e-Shahi and Khanpur Mahal," our guide greeted us.

As our jeep passed by the shores of the lake, I got quite excited. Many species of birds could be seen dotting the waters of this shallow lake. If this was the scene in early summer as we were travelling in the first week of April, I could well imagine how this lake would be a paradise for the migratory birds and bird lovers in the winter. Tufted ducks, common teals, and pintails are among them.

I swung my camera into action, asking the driver to stop wherever there was a photo opportunity. The lake itself had a beauty to it that was enhanced by the historical ruins bordering it.

Painted storks in Talab-e-Shahi. Image by: Oishimaya Sen Nag.

The Khanpur Mahal, however, was a bit disappointing. Not the palace itself but the way the local government had allowed it to fall into ruins really saddened me. It had been created as the pleasure residence of Shah Jahan during his visits to Dholpur for hunting. The architecture was grand but crumbling. 

There was a beautiful garden through which you could walk to reach the lake's shores and enjoy seeing birds in it. I was overjoyed to see two pied kingfishers with their unique black and white plumage and crest on a ledge beside me. One of them flew up and started hovering over the lake before diving in to catch a fish. It failed to get one, but it would try again. Wishing it good luck, I moved on.

A pair of pied kingfishers on a ledge along the Talab-e-Shahi. Image by: Oishimaya Sen Nag

I rode the jeep again, moving along the length of the lake and the wetlands on the other side of the road. I managed to photograph a great variety of birds. The grey-headed swamphens looked particularly striking in the wetlands, their bluish-purple plumage glistening in the sunlight and their red bill and forehead shield making a great contrast. 

A grey-headed swamphen in the wetland. Image by: Oishimaya Sen Nag

The sun was about to set, and the lake's sparkling clean waters, dotted by the silhouettes of many birds, appeared magical. 

On my way back, I really wished that the concerned authorities would assign more care to this beautiful heritage destination. It would be a shame if we lost such gorgeous architecture due to mere negligence. I hope to return one day to see the Khanpur Mahal and the Talab-e-Shahi restored to the royal glory that they deserve.

Written by: Dr. Oishimaya Sen Nag

Visiting The Gharial Rearing Centre In Deori, Madhya Pradesh

A gharial on the sand bank of the Chambal River. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

You may have heard of captive conservation rearing and rehabilitation to save threatened species from extinction. In some species, this conservation measure has been hugely successful. Gharials are one such species. If you wish to witness the implementation of such a conservation measure, and if Crocodilians like the gharial fascinate you, the Gharial Rearing Centre in Deori, Madhya Pradesh, is one place you must visit.

Located in the National Chambal Sanctuary, around 10 km from the town of Morena, Madhya Pradesh, around 19 km from Dholpur, Rajasthan, and around 45 km from the historical city of Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh, this place can be searched on Google Maps as "Eco Centre, Deori, Morena." It is located on the NH44 and remains open all year round from around 9 am to 5 pm. It is a perfect place to visit with family, especially children, to watch the unique and highly threatened gharials in the many hatcheries scattered throughout the centre. 

A Brief History Of The Centre

Entrance to the Gharial Rearing Centre, Deori. Image credit: Arijit Nag

In the 1970s, it was realised that the gharials were on the brink. Decades of being subjected to habitat destruction, hunting, pollution, etc., had decimated gharial populations across their range in the Indian subcontinent. 

Thus, to save the species, the Indian Government launched Project Crocodile in 1975 in collaboration with the UNDP and FAO. As part of this Project, the Gharial Rearing Centre was set up in Deori to raise gharial hatchlings in captivity and release them into the wild in the river later. The centre became part of the National Chambal Sanctuary, which was also set up around that time. The method of rearing gharials in captivity became a huge success, and gharial populations rose significantly. By 1991, however, the Project stopped receiving funding as the authorities believed that the gharial populations were stable. They could not be more wrong. 

Two juvenile gharials in the Chambal River near Dholpur, Rajasthan. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

In 2006, the conservation world received a massive jolt. A population study found that gharial populations had dropped down to only around 200! 

Once again, there was an urgency to save the gharials. This time, however, conservation efforts were launched in the long term, and the Gharial Rearing Centre at Deori once again played a vital role in conserving this critically endangered species.

Conservation Operations At The Gharial Rearing Centre

Thousands of gharials are raised in the Gharial Rearing Centre to be released into the wild, primarily the Chambal River. The National Chambal Sanctuary staff visit the sand banks of the Chambal around March-April when the female gharials lay their eggs in the sand by digging holes and then covering the eggs with sand. A single clutch has around 18 to 52 eggs. The sanctuary staff remove some of the eggs from each nest, leaving the rest to incubate naturally and carry them to the Gharial Rearing Centre. During this process, care is taken to ensure that the eggs receive the optimal conditions needed to stay healthy. 

At the centre, the eggs are incubated in hatcheries designed for the purpose. Upon hatching, which happens after around 60 to 65 days of incubation, the newborn gharials are shifted to a new hatchery. Each gharial is also given a unique identification by a small cut in its tail. A series of hatcheries in the centre houses gharials at various stages of growth. Each hatchery comes with a small pond where the water is regularly changed as gharials are highly sensitive to water quality. Sand is spread around the pond's banks to replicate their riverine habitat. The gharials are also fed fresh fish, which constitutes the majority of their diet in the wild.

A tagged juvenile gharial in the Chambal River of the National Chambal Sanctuary near Dholpur, Rajasthan. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

Once the gharials grow to around 120 cm, when they are about 3 to 4 years old, they are prepared for release in the wild in the nearby Chambal River of the National Chambal Sanctuary. Some of the gharials are radio-tagged to study their behaviour in the wild and gather vital information on gharial ecology.

Visiting The Gharial Rearing Centre

A signboard educating visitors about gharials at the Gharial Rearing Centre, Deori.

The Gharial Rearing Centre is open to all, so you can pay a visit and learn about these fascinating Crocodilians who are endemic to the Indian subcontinent. Here, gharials at different stages of growth can be observed basking on the sand of the hatcheries, swimming in the pools, and moving around the hatchery. The Centre also houses some other species like the mugger and tortoises found in the Chambal River.

In addition, the Gharial Rearing Centre also houses a nature interpretation centre and museum that educate visitors about the various species inhabiting the sanctuary and the conservation work done in the centre and the sanctuary. 

Writer: Dr. Oishimaya Sen Nag

Read more: GHARIAL AND TOURISM: ROLE OF NATIONAL CHAMBAL SANCTUARY INCONSERVATION OF GHARIALS AND PROMOTING TOURISM

The Western Hoolock Gibbon, The Forgotten Ape Of India

A male hoolock gibbon at the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

Our closest relatives on our Planet Earth, the Greater Apes, like the chimpanzees and gorillas of Equatorial Africa and the orangutans of Southeast Asia, are no strangers to us, thanks to many mentions of these animals in popular culture. We humans share well over 95% of our genetic code with these apes, who are heavily featured in films, documentaries, books, and social media worldwide. However, did you know that India is also home to an ape species closely linked to us on the evolutionary tree? It is the Western hoolock gibbon or Hoolock hoolock. Interestingly, the species is often reported as India's one and only ape, leaving out humans who, according to taxonomic classification, belong to the same family Hominidae as the Greater Apes and, hence, might also be regarded as an ape species. Coming back to the Western hoolock gibbon, however, it is important to know that they are no less fascinating than a chimpanzee or an orangutan but mostly remain out of the spotlight. Sadly, the apathy shown to them is a major reason why the numbers of these apes are dropping perilously. So, here is an article dedicated to the fascinating Western hoolock gibbons of India. 

Where To Find The Hoolocks In India?

With the forest guard and guide at the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, Assam. 

In taxonomic terms, the Western hoolock gibbon is a gibbon species of the Hylobatidae family, which accommodates four genera with 20 species. These lesser apes lack a tail like all other apes, distinguishing them from other primates like the monkeys. The genera Hoolock includes three species, of which only the Western hoolock gibbon inhabits India, as confirmed by a 2021 scientific study. 

The Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary in Assam near the quaint Assamese town of Mariani is the best bet for those interested in watching these apes in action. It is a beautiful, lush wilderness dedicated to these gibbons, although it also houses six other primate species as well. Jorhat in Assam houses the nearest airport to this sanctuary. 

Trail path through the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, Assam. The forest is an ideal example of a prime habitat of the Western hoolock gibbon. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

The Western hoolock gibbon has also been reported living in other forests of the state and across the six other north-eastern states of the country, namely, Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram, Manipur, Nagaland, Tripura, and Meghalaya. Its range also stretches into parts of Myanmar and Bangladesh. However, the species' distribution across the range is highly patchy due to the extremely fragmented nature of their habitat.

Video: Western hoolock gibbons in their natural habitat at the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, Assam. Video credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

What is vital for these gibbons is the presence of a continuous cover of trees to support their nearly 100% arboreal lifestyle. These gibbons occupy canopies in tropical and sub-tropical evergreen and semi-evergreen forests with limited distribution in other types of forests like deciduous.

The Hoolock Look

Video: Male Western hoolock gibbon feeding on a tree. Video credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

It appears that nature has taken great care in designing the Western hoolock gibbons. Males and females exhibit sexual dimorphism, with males sporting a black pelage while females adorn a brownish-grey fur that is darker at the chest and neck. Two white fur patches over the eyes of the males give them the name "white-browed" gibbons, while females have a mask-like appearance with whitish rings around the eyes and mouth. Juveniles of both sexes are born with a pale brownish fur that turns black as they grow. Upon maturity, the black in females changes to their adult colouration. 

A female Western hoolock gibbon. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag.

Hoolocks are not just interesting in appearance. They are also well-adapted to living on the trees. Watching them moving from one tree to another at speeds of up to 55 km/hr by brachiation is quite a delight. Their long forelimbs, hook-like elongated fingers, prehensile feet and flexible ankle joints all come together to make them true tree-dwellers. They also exhibit suspensory feeding, where they dangle from a tree with one of their hands clinging onto a branch and eating with the other hand.

What Hoolocks Eat And Drink?

The Western hoolock gibbon is primarily a frugivore; it specialises in feeding on fruit pulp and has a simple stomach that cannot digest complex compounds. When food is scarce, these gibbons might resort to feeding on other plant parts like flowers, leaves, and shoots, or even insects or other animal matter as well. Hoolocks spend over 27% of their daily time foraging and more than 30% of their time feeding. The rest of their time goes into resting, socialising, and other activities. As they almost never come down to the ground, they get their water from the food they eat and also drink water collected in the tree hollows by scooping it up with their hands and licking it.

The Hoolock Family

Video: Brachiation exhibited by a male Western hoolock gibbon at the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, Assam. Video credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

Hoolock gibbons do not form very large social groups but exist in small family groups, each with an adult male and female and three to four of their offspring. Larger groups sometimes exist, especially when large patches of unfragmented habitat are present. While these gibbons are known to be monogamous, mating with the same partner throughout their lifetime, exceptions have also been observed.

Males usually initiate mating, approaching females, with the couple grooming, playing, and spending time together before copulation. A single offspring is born after a gestation period of 180 to 240 days.

Saving The Hoolocks 

Video: A male Western hoolock gibbon at the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, Assam. Video credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

It is quite easy to understand why the Western hoolock gibbon is a threatened species occupying the "Endangered" position on the IUCN Red List. It absolutely needs continuous tree cover to survive, and that is what is totally lacking in the range occupied by this species.

Deforestation across the species' range to make space for human occupation, tea gardens, other agricultural practices, etc., has reduced the connectivity between forest patches occupied by these gibbons. The populations are now isolated across the range in islands of forests surrounded by multiple-use landscapes. Without a connection between populations, inbreeding is unavoidable, reducing the genetic vitality of the species. Further, even these forested habitats are further fragmented by linear infrastructure. For example, a 1.6 km railway line runs right through the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, fragmenting it into two unequal halves with hoolock gibbon populations on either side but disconnected from each other. In some parts of their range, these primates are also poached for meat and other body parts for use in traditional practices. 

Railway line cutting through the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, separating hoolock gibbon families on either side of the railway line. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag

Saving the future of the Western hoolock gibbon won't be easy, given their highly specific needs for dense forest cover and the rapid urbanisation and developmental activities occurring across its range. However, conserving the species is vital to protect not just the gibbons but also the highly biodiverse forests they occupy, which provide humans with numerous ecosystem services that are absolutely needed for our healthy and peaceful living.

Protectors of the Western Hoolock Gibbons. Forest guard and guide at the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary in Assam. Guns are kept to scare away elephants in case they are encountered while patrolling the sanctuary on foot. Image credit: Oishimaya Sen Nag.

More focus on the Western hoolock gibbon is needed. It is a species that remains out of the spotlight. Many people across the country are not even aware of the presence of such a unique ape species, but many are often obsessed with chimpanzees and orangutans found in other countries. The Western hoolock gibbon is a source of pride for India and a valuable inhabitant of the country. We all need to play an essential role in creating education and awareness about the species and the need to conserve it.

Writer: Dr. Oishimaya Sen Nag