The Black-necked Crane Festival Of Bhutan - A Celebration Of Human-Wildlife Bonding

The statue of black-necked cranes at the Gangtey Monastery courtyard, Phobjikha Valley, Bhutan.

If you wish to explore human-wildlife bonding up close and personal, do visit Bhutan's Phobjikha Valley on November 11. On this day, the local people of the valley and the monks of the Gangteng Monastery sing and dance in a celebratory event like no other called the "Black-necked Crane Festival" to welcome migratory black-necked cranes to their ethereal valley. This one-day event, held in the courtyard of the age-old Gangteng Monastery, embraces all visitors, local or foreign, with its splash of colors, mysterious and melodious Bhutanese folk songs and dances, and a spiritual ambiance unique to the high mountains of the Himalayas. This year, I was one of those few fortunate to have the opportunity to attend this festival in this slice of heaven on Earth, and hence, I am presenting it to you all below:

The Stars Of The Show

An injured black-necked crane in that the Black-necked Crane Information Centre in Phobjikha Valley, Bhutan.

The Black-necked Crane Festival, although started more recently in November 1998 as a one-day annual event, actually celebrates an age-old bond between the people of the Phobjikha Valley and the black-necked cranes they regard as beings from heaven. Called the thrung-thrung karmo in the local Dzongkha language, the arrival of these regal visitors from the remote Tibetan Plateau around late October is regarded as a good omen - a symbol of prosperity and fertility. As such, these birds heavily feature in the region's folklore, and traditional songs, and dances. 

The Phobjikha Valley, Bhutan.

In Bhutan, Phobjikha in Wangdue district and Bomdeling in Trashi Yangtse district are the two primary wintering destinations for these winged beauties. Phobjikha, a U-shaped valley at an elevation of around 3,000 m, around four hours drive from the national capital of Thimpu, hosts the highest number of these birds among these two, with last year witnessing the arrival of nearly 600 black-necked cranes to the valley. It is said that these birds, upon their arrival between mid-October and early December, circumambulate the Gangtey Monastery three times and repeat the same act when returning to Tibet between March and mid-April. While they stay in the valley, their presence is a constant source of joy to the people of Phobjikha and numerous international travelers who tread long distances just to witness these marvelous birds and the festival dedicated to them. 

The black-necked crane is the world's only alpine crane species and charms all with its elegant appearance and graceful moves. A bright red patch adorns its otherwise black head, while its neck and tail are also jet black, contrasting its ashy gray body. Numbering only just over 6,000 mature individuals, this Near Threatened species breeds in the Tibetan Plateau of China and remote parts of Ladakh, India, and winters at lower, warmer altitudes in some parts of Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh, India. 

In its wintering habitat in the Phobjikha Valley, the black-necked cranes feed on harvest residues in the region's agricultural fields as well as dwarf bamboo and other vegetation growing in the wetlands of the valley, along with a range of invertebrates, frogs, fish, lizards, and more. A large section of the valley is designated as a conservation area to keep the birds safe while potato cultivation flourishes in the other parts of the valley, which, along with tourism, form the backbone of the local economy. 

A Festival To Win Hearts And Save Lives

A Black-necked Crane. Image credit: Lorie Shaull, via Wikimedia Commons

Unlike the fairytales associated with the black-necked cranes ending in a happily ever after, the life of these cranes is riddled with many challenges. While natural predators like leopards, foxes, and small wild cats prey on these birds across their range, humans have bigger, fiercer, and catastrophic impacts on their survival rates. Throughout their range, drainage and conversion of wetlands into human settlements and agricultural lands, construction of dams, diversion of rivers and streams for human use, livestock overgrazing, peat mining in wetlands, egg collection for consumption, predation by domestic dogs, etc., are some of the many threats that growing human presence pose to the survival of these birds.

The Gangtey Monastery courtyard hosting the Black-necked Crane Festival.

But the people of Bhutan, always  at the forefront of environmental conservation, realized the need to protect the birds from such adverse human impacts quite early on. In 1998, the Royal Society for Protection of Nature (RSPN), a national NGO, organized the first "Black-necked Crane Festival in the Phobjikha Valley. Initially held near a school building, the festival venue was shifted to the impressive and historically and religiously significant Gangteng Monastery in 2005. 

The aim was to revive the ancient connection between the people of Bhutan and these birds and promote domestic and international tourism to create an environment where the local communities would become the protectors rather than the destroyers of the birds. The wisdom of RSPN worked, and soon, the festival became a huge success. The inflow of income from growing tourism in the valley due to the presence of the birds and the allure of the festival supplemented the income of the locals, encouraging them to protect the birds and their wetland habitat in the valley.

The Black-Necked Crane Visitor Center in the Phobjikha Valley.

A Black-necked Crane Visitor Center was also set up in the valley to provide locals and visitors an opportunity to learn more about the black-necked cranes. The Centre can be visited today and is equipped with telescopes and spotting scopes to view the birds in the valley. It also showcases a 15-minute documentary at regular intervals related to the conservation of these birds in the Phobjikha Valley and has numerous displays providing an in-depth understanding of these birds to those interested to learn more about them.

Black-necked Crane Festival, 2023

Local families during the lunch break at the Black-necked Crane Festival 2023 in the Gangtey Monastery, Bhutan. 

This year was the 24th celebration of the Black-necked Crane Festival. To me, witnessing this festival happening before my eyes was a dream come true. The event was held on November 11, a day regarded as auspicious by the Bhutanese people as it coincides with the birthday of their fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.

By 9 am, the courtyard of the Gangteng Monastery was choc-a-bloc full of spectators, including local people and foreign tourists. Foreigners had to pay an entry fee at the gate of the monastery. For Indians like me, it was only INR 250, but higher for visitors from other countries. 

With my very knowledgeable guide from Bhutan, Guru, at the Gangtey Monastery to attend the Black-necked Crane Festival, 2023.

The impressive monastery architecture, the surrounding lofty Himalayan peaks, and the vibrant costumes of the local people and festival performers all made for a very cheerful sight. After the ceremonial blessing by the monastery head and initiation Buddhist rituals, the songs and dances began one after the other, each a treat to the eyes and ears of the spectators, and continued till the evening, only interrupted by a small lunch break of 45 minutes. 

Performers included school and college children, monks of the monastery, and local men and women - all draped in colorful traditional costumes that are a photographer's delight. While every program charmed the audience, the crane and mask dances grabbed the spotlight. 

Crane dances, performed by students, surrounding the statues of an adult and juvenile black-necked crane, served as a gesture of love and reverence of the local community of the Phobjikha Valley toward the winged visitors of their valley. 

A mask dance performer at the Black-necked Crane Festival, 2023.

The mask dances, or Chaam in the local language, were sacred dances linked to Buddhist religion and spirituality with elements of both the powerful and the mysterious. Also adding a lot of humor to the festival were balloon fight events and the act of the Atsaras, clown-like performers who are also believed to play important spiritual roles. 

Posing with an Atsara at the Black-necked Crane Festival 2023, Bhutan.

At the end of the day, it was just exciting to think that the source of all this mirth and merriment, the smiles on so many faces, was the arrival of the black-necked cranes in the Phobjikha Valley. It was truly a celebration of conservation - an inspiration for those working hard to reverse the adverse impacts of growing human populations and aspirations on environment and wildlife.

Written by: Dr. Oishimaya Sen Nag

All videos and photos (except for those credited otherwise) by: Dr. Oishimaya Sen Nag

The Huayllay Stone Forest : An Offbeat Destination in Peru

Introduction

When one thinks of tourism in Peru, images of mystic Machu Picchu often come to mind. But, this South American country offers much more than just ancient Incan ruins! Not considering its other tourist attractions could result in missing out on the opportunity to learn more about this beautiful place. One of Peru’s lesser known destinations is the Huayllay Stone Forest.

Geography 

The Huayllay Stone Forest is located in the central Andean region of Peru on the Bombon Plateau at an altitude higher than 4,000 meters above sea level. What makes this place unique and worth a trip off the well-beaten tourist path is its strange rock formations. The otherwise unassuming landscape plays host to these giant columns which portray animal and human shapes and surprisingly jut out of the ground as if rooted there. 

History and Background

This beautiful Huayllay Stone Forest National Sanctuary was once part of the ocean floor some 70 million years ago. When the ocean parted way and uncovered this section of land, it was left exposed to other natural elements which helped in the creation of the Stone Forest. Rain beating down, wind chipping away at cracks and glaciers slowly eroding away at the rock are all responsible for leaving behind these protruding memorials. 

The Peruvian government officially declared this a protected area in 1974 in an attempt to conserve these geological oddities. There are over 4,000 formations spread out over a 6,800-hectare area. In 1997, it was named a National Zone of Tourist Interest which means the government had every intention of investing in its development as such. Not having forgotten the zone’s potential, it was again remembered in 2001 when the government announced that it was also a Cultural National Patrimony.

Tourism

Despite its longstanding status as a National Sanctuary and Patrimony, the Huayllay Stone Forest is still not well known by tourists, neither local nor foreign. There are some small festivals that take place to celebrate supposed UFO sightings, but even these do not draw many visitors. This, of course, makes it the perfect place to visit for those who are tired of shoving through large crowds of people and standing in hour-long lines just to buy entrance tickets. 

This Stone Sanctuary is for the most adventurous of spirits who don’t mind sharing their surroundings with numerous llamas that freely roam the area. There are several hiking trails waiting to discovered, the shortest of which are anywhere from 4 to 6 hours in length. In addition to hiking, the area also allows rock climbing and mountain biking. And after a long day of exhausting physical activity, tourists are welcomed into the natural hot springs the protected zone has to offer. Though the nearby towns offer simple accommodations, there are many visitors who choose to camp instead. 

Habitat & Biodiversity 

As with many geographical regions throughout Peru, the Huayllay Stone Forest is filled with unparalleled flora and fauna. Roaming amid the tall, geological columns are scampering viscachas (from the chinchilla family), bounding vicuñas (relative of the llama) and soaring hawks. Other small mammals also abound, from foxes to skunks. The plant life is typical of the high altitude: brush and flowering evergreen shrubs. Perhaps of interest to plant enthusiasts is the Polylepis, a small, endangered tree that is unique to the Andean mountains. 

Written By: Amber Pariona, Peru.

Camping at Algonquin With Overhang Adventures

Are you visiting the bustling metropolis of Toronto in summer? Are you someone who has never camped before?

If the answer to both these questions is yes, then get ready to embark on an amazing journey into the heart of Canadian wilderness at the Algonquin Provincial Park, with the assistance of some cool guides from Overhang Adventures who will teach you all you need to know about camping.

Last summer,  my husband and me, two people who had no prior camping experience signed up for a package tour "Intro to Algonquin" by Overhang Adventures (in association with Parkbus), where we were to attend a 3-day front country camping trip at Algonquin with our tour guides, Jill and Kris.

Here, we are discussing why this trip was simply amazing and why it is a must attend for all who are new to camping:

Smooth Journey to The Park: The Algonquin Provincial Park is located around 3 hours away from Toronto. The round trip from Toronto to Algonquin was included in our trip package and we were picked up by Parkbus at one of the scheduled stops of the bus in downtown Toronto early in the morning. The bus journey was nice and comfortable and definitely very scenic, especially as the fall colours were arriving in mid-September.

Excellent Introduction to Multiculturalism: As we arrived at our stop in Algonquin Park, we were greeted by our guides for the trip who introduced us to each other and to the other campers in the team. There were visitors attending from 11 countries in the world and we were to stay together as a team in the Algonquin wilderness for the next two nights! Unity in diversity was definitely something we learnt in this trip!

Fun and Learning: We learnt a lot of activities in this trip: setting up our tents, learning the various types of knots, playing outdoor games, splitting wood pieces with an axe in the safest possible way, etc. Our guides gave us hands-on experience in all these activities and were very patient throughout our learning process. Each and every one of us received equal attention from the guides who never failed to help us out. The whole evening was spent in a fun and fruitful manner.

Wholesome food: Though definitely we cannot expect fine cuisines on a camping trip and food was primarily vegetarian in nature (as that's the safest way to treat a multicultural crowd), it was enough to keep us full and also tasted quite good after our long hikes and canoeing activities throughout our tour. It is also wise to take some dry food with you as you might feel hungry in the after hours and need to satisfy your pangs of hunger at such times. We also often helped in the cooking procedures which was again a lot of fun.

Beautiful Nature: We were surrounded by natural bounties all around us, we sighted a few birds and also had some interesting non-human visitors to our campsite: a sly little fox and a cute and daring raccoon. A vast, blue lake stretched out for a long distance just a few steps away from our campsite where we would often spend time relaxing.

Bathroom facilities: The Whitefish Lake campground is also the only campground in Algonquin with basic toilet facilities, without bathing facilities. So, for all those of you who are a bit jumpy at the thought of having to do "it" in the open, might rest assured that is not the problem here.

Loads of activities: You will be trained to canoe and no worries, me being a non-swimmer and a water-fearing person, was able to canoe on the Whitefish Lake with my husband for nearly an hour and a half, thanks to the helpful guides who stayed with us on their canoe, guiding us through the lake. We also enjoyed long hikes encompassing wildlife viewing and scenic viewpoint stopovers. Of course, the bonfires at night complete with the ghost stories told by our fellow campers was also extremely exciting.

Excellent Memories: On this camping trip, as a first-time camper I learned a lot and was at the end of the trip really thankful to Overhang Adventures for arranging such a trip where you can experience what it is to be a camper while staying within the easy reach of safety and comfort, a preparation for the next level-up where you can actually go backcountry camping. The tour is suitable for all and you are can opt out of any activities you deem might be difficult for you. You also learn to interact with people from across the world, live with them as a team and learn new things together. In the presence of guides, your safety is ensured as long as you follow the rules properly.

So, the next time you are visiting Toronto in summer,  be sure to enjoy your Algonquin trip with Overhang Adventures.

International Wildlife Destinations Where Indians Do Not Need a Visa (or need only a visa on arrival)

Wouldn't it be great if anytime we want, we can take a ride to the nearest airport, book a flight ticket and set out to an international wildlife destination without even needing to go through all the tedious formalities required to make a visa? Though as Indians, we do not have one of the best passports in the world, there are still some really exotic locations that we can visit without needing a visa before our journey! Well, I am definitely not going to mention the forests of Nepal and Bhutan as many of us have already visited these favourite Indian tourists spots without any visa, but here is a list of some other wild destinations that Indians can visit without a visa:

1.Antarctica: The coasts of Antarctica hosts a spectacular array of penguin colonies of Emperor, Chinstrap, Adelie and Gentoo penguins. The waters around these coasts abound in seal species like the Leopard, Ross, Weddell, Antarctic Fur and Crabeater seals as well as whales like Humpback, Blue Whale, Minke Whale and others. Bird watchers will find birds like Albatrosses, Diving petrels, Cormorants, Gulls, Herons and Egrets and many other species of these feathered creatures. Besides the wildlife, the scenic, ice covered Antarctic Desert with its high mountain ranges and high peaks like Mount Tyree and Mount Visconsin, will give you memories of a lifetime. Since Antarctica does not officially belong to any country, you do not require a formal visa (Except for the British overseas territories of Falkland Islands in Antarctica),  to visit this continent. However, you do require a hefty budget and permits to tour the frozen continent. Good luck with that!

By Whit Welles Wwelles14 (Own work) [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC BY 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

2.Bolivia: The South American country of Bolivia is a treasure trove for wildlife enthusiasts. What if you do not have the patience to go through the formalities of visa processing for visiting the Amazon in Brazil, as an Indian, you can directly catch a flight to Bolivia and get yourself a visa upon arrival at the La Paz Airport in the country and enter to explore the equally thrilling Bolivian rainforests. In Bolivia, you can tour the dense forests to catch a sight of the elusive jaguar or navigate in the waters of the country to interact with the highly intelligent native pink dolphins or keep your binoculars in constant alert to observe the vibrant and unique avian life of the Bolivian habitat.

By Michelle Bender (http://www.flickr.com/photos/-mbender/5354172843/) [CC BY-SA 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

3.Madagascar: If you have watched the movie Madagascar and were eager to meet the real life Alex, Melman, Marty and Gloria, then you might directly head over to the island country of Madagascar located on the Indian Ocean, off the mainland coast of southeast Africa. However, once there be prepared for a shock and a surprise. Nowhere on this island will you find the usual African species of lions, giraffes, zebras and hippos but what you will find here is found nowhere else on the planet. Due to its geographical isolation, over 90% of the species of Madagascar is endemic in nature, implying these species are found exclusively on this island. Lemurs of Madagascar are the flagship mammalian species of this ecosystem. 103 species and subspecies of these animals exist in Madagascar. Besides lemurs, other interesting Madagascar mammals are Aye-Aye, Fossa, Flying fox, etc. The island also houses two thirds of the world's chameleon species and over 300 species of birds. The best thing is you can visit this enchanting land on Earth without the need of any visa from India but a visa on arrival will suffice. Hence, happy wildlifing!

4.Seychelles: Azure blue skies, emerald green waters, white, sandy beaches that is not what Seychelles is all about. For the wildlife seeker and adventurist, bird watcher and animal lover, the island of Seychelles, off the eastern coast of Africa in the Indian Ocean, is a treasure trove of a rich and diverse variety of plant and animal species waiting to be watched and marvelled at. The giant tortoises of Aldabra, birds like the Seychelles magpie robin, Seychelles black parrot, Seychelles warbler, Seychelles paradise flycatcher, Aldabra drongo, reptiles like endemic chameleon Archaius tigris are some of the flagship species of the forests of this island. Already gearing up to include Seychelles in your bucket list of places to see? Then the good news is, if you are visiting this island nation from India, you will not need a visa but a visitor's permit on arrival will suffice.

By International Rhino Foundation (Ratu and Andatu Day 4  Uploaded by FunkMonk) [CC BY 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

5.Indonesia: The tropical archipelago of Indonesia is famous as a popular honeymoon destination and as a vacation spot for those who love to relax in the beach resorts of Indonesia's spectacular beaches. However, this country, also provides a vast habitat for an excellent diversity of flora and fauna which is sure to thrill a nature lover at all points of time. The best part is, if you are travelling from India, you do not need to go through the tedious visa processing steps to visit this country. Like most isolated island, the wild species of Indonesia exhibits a high degree of endemism. Estuaries, mangroves, island ecosystems, coral reefs, tropical rainforests are the diverse types of ecosystems distributed at various parts of the country. Borneo orangutans, Sumatran orangutans, Javan and Sumatran rhinoceros, etc., are some of the well-known mammalian species of this ecosystem. A large number of endemic birds like the Javan plover, Bali sterling, endemic reptiles like Bornean earless monitor, amphibians and insects also occupy the wild habitats of Indonesia.

By Greg Hume (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

By Philipp Weigell (picture taken by Philipp Weigell) [CC BY 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0) or CC BY 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

6.Trinidad and Tobago: The twin island country of Trinidad and Tobago, situated off the northern coast of mainland South America is an exotic wildlife destination for naturalists and birdwatchers from all over the globe. Mammals like the prehensile tailed porcupine, nine-banded armadillo, silky anteater, agouti and birds like Trinidad motmot, orange-winged Amazon parrot, magnificent frigatebird as well as marine species like the Atlantic spotted dolphin, leatherback turtle, southern stingray, etc., are wild species to look out for in the rich natural habitats of Trinidad and Tobago. If you are from Indian, you do not even need a visa to visit this exotic destination. So start saving and enjoy your wild Caribbean tour!

By leppyone (Nine-banded Armadillo) [CC BY 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

For more details on Indian Visa requirements visit the page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_requirements_for_Indian_citizens

6 Tips for Camping Outdoors: Common camping mistakes that may can cost you dearly!

1. Make a reservation

Consider campsites like hotels. Would you visit a hotel at peak season without making a prior reservation? So is the case with busy campsites, especially front country campsites. If you do not wish to face the terrible disappointment of having to return back from a campsite due to full occupancy, make sure you make your bookings days or sometimes even months in advance.

2. Check your equipment and camp gear

A failure to set up your tent due to defective equipments can lead you into a lot of trouble at the campsite. So, if you are using a new tent or a new set of equipments, always ensure you practice setting up your tent at home in your backyard, or any other open ground. Remember, practice always makes a man perfect! Research thoroughly about what is absolutely essential for camping. Never, ever carry insufficient lighting source for the night. Carry flashlights with sufficient battery back-up. Also carry a well-equipped first-aid kit for emergencies. Learn to tie good camping knots which will be very useful in wilderness survival. Carry waterproof gear with you even if the weather looks clear at the starting of your trip. You can never predict weather accurately.

3. Tame the foodie in you! 

 A campsite is not a place for elaborate cooking sprees. Carry food that is easy to cook and less messy while at the same time supplies you with sufficient nutrients. Some easy and cheap camping cooking items are pancake mixes, egg sandwiches, trail mixes, campfire pizza logs, roasted apples and bananas, pita breads and bagels, marinated baked tofu, tinned fruits, chickpeas, ready-made meals, etc. Ensure that you leave no sign of cooking and eating on the campsite before you leave.

4. Do not be guilty of burning down the wilderness! 

Campfires make camping much more fun. However, make sure you act responsibly while handling the campfire. Check for the fire permits, rules and regulations of your campsite. After all, you would not love to be held responsible for torching down the entire area! Around 90% of wildfires in the U.S. are caused by humans. Burning of debris, burning cigarette butts and unattended campfires flares up the wilderness very easily and quickly. Ensure that before you leave for the tent, your campfire is successfully killed. All the wood must completely burn to ash, use water to drown all embers and make sure everything is wet and cold.  Dirt and sand can also be used to replace water in case there is scarcity of water in the area.

5. Do not poison yourself! 

Try not to be too adventurous and taste the fruits and leaves of wild plants. Some plant products may be dangerous and poisonous. Research thoroughly about the campsite and its flora and fauna before visiting the place. This makes you aware of the precautions to be taken. Poison oak, poison ivy, poison sumac, angel trumpet, rosary pea and aconite are some of the poisonous plants to be avoided while camping.

6. Do not invite wild guests to your tent!

It definitely wouldn't be nice if you have a black bear poking its nose into your tent in the dead of the night! Never store food materials inside or near your tent. This invites wild animals to your tent. Always try to cook at some distance from the tent so that the smell of food does not linger near your tent area. If your campsite is prone to bear or wolf visits, use food canisters and packs which prevents the smell of food from emanating out of the package. Store this food about 100 yards or more away from your tents. Bears and wolves rarely attack humans. It is the food that they are attracted to and safely stowing away food items protects you from any kind of invading animal species.

Photography : Arijit Nag at Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario, Canada